We recently introduced or rather re-introduced our readers to Marco Shalma, Chief Editor @foodessey (just one of many self appointed titles and identities) and who despite being a relatively new resident to the so-called Bronx has managed to establish tight connections with local elected officials, businesses, and various government agencies. We were impressed to learn that he is some sort of magician; that’s the only logical explanation for someone who was born in two places at once… right?
We learned that when he’s operating the Uptown Night Market he prefers to identify as Middle Eastern, listing his mother and father as descending from North Africa; Morocco, and Egypt respectively however when it’s “helpful” Shalma will identify as a “Caribbean Spanish guy” who lives in the Bronx. As of late October 2023, Shalma has been openly and proudly identifying as Israeli.
Needless to say, after learning all that we have so far, we are quite suspicious of this shape-shifting entrepreneur so we decided to take a closer look at the information outlined in his Wiki bio. Shalma claims to have gone on to earn his Master’s Degree in Film/Cinema/Video Studies from New York University back in 2009 however our team could not verify such information, according to the school records he attended one semester.
Our international man of mystery made his first public New York City appearance back in 2013 when he introduced a burger with pan-fried crickets while working at Antojeria La Popular. Antojeria is a Mexican restaurant formerly owned by Regina Galvanduque (who later went on to partner with Shalma’s previous employer Grupo MYT in 2019, forming MYT + GLVDK as a result) and is located in the so-called SoHo area of Manhattan. According to an ABC News article from that same year, the dish “was meant to address a growing dialogue about harvesting insects for feeding communities around the world” and it was created as an art piece to be premiered at the People’s United Nations event by Mexico City-based artist Pedro Reyes. While researching a bit about Pedro, we learned that the artist coincidentally enough was personal friends with Regina Galvanduque at the time of the event so it makes sense the Mexican restaurant would be featured. The question we are left wondering is how Marco Shalma fits into this Mexican-based Hospitality Group or even the larger narrative of “feeding communities around the world”?
Is it safe to assume based on what we learned via a “Podcast Against Antisemitism” that from 2009 to 2013, Marco Shalma was appropriating a Mexican identity and/or Mexican culture to build their branding resume?
Let’s fast forward to 2019 when Shalma, now all grown up and attempting to replicate a hospitality group of his own, created a target social media campaign for Bronx Residents. “We want to represent the voice of the borough – and with this platform, we will be able to do so while also reaching other Bronxites who will understand the stories told from a Bronx perspective.” He went on to then bash local small businesses with “F#%K YOUR BODEGA…!” “F#%K YOUR BODEGA. I WANT FRESH AND LOCAL!”
According to a local survey conducted by the Bodega Association of the United States, a whopping 85% of bodegas in New York City identify as Latin-owned. Bodegas are the heart of many neighborhoods across the city but in particular, neighborhoods that have been redlined, neglected, and left to fend for themselves have often relied on Bodegas as the only source of nutritious foods.Bodegas, corner stores, delis, groceries, the Ocky spot, the 24-hour grill… whatever you want to call these businesses, they are essential to the borough. Bodegas are a response to systemic racism and actively feed communities.
Which brings us back to our previous questions, how has he positively impacted the Bronx; a predominantly immigrant community of displaced people from all over the globe? How does Marco Shalma fit into the narrative of “feeding communities around the world”? Can he fit into that narrative while actively selling high-end food experiences? Why is he here?
Stay Tuned… more to come.
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